Old floor cracked, uneven or letting damp up into the flooring? We pour a new concrete floor with the base, joints and moisture worked out first.
Concrete floor installation in Redmond is a new slab poured over ground we've dug out and packed firm, so you get a flat, solid floor for a garage, shop, basement or addition that can take tile, wood or carpet on top.
Most floor calls are about a room someone is finishing or fixing, and the first thing I ask is what's going on top of it. The price moves with the size of the room, how much soft dirt has to come out before there's a firm base, and whether tile, wood or carpet goes on top, since that changes what goes under the concrete. The schedule turns more on the permit question and the weather on pour day than on the pour itself. If an old floor is in the way, concrete cutting usually comes first. I come out and look at the room, and that's where you get a figure for yours.
I come out for the estimate myself, so the person looking at your room is the one who'll be there on pour day. Our own crew does the work with me running it, which means the joint layout and moisture plan we agree on are what gets built.
We've been in business since 2013, and I learned a good part of the trade breaking up old slabs to see why they failed. Usually it's what was underneath. So before we pour yours, I'll ask what's under the old floor and where the water goes.
We're licensed and insured. The state requires every construction contractor to register with its Department of Labor and Industries, L&I, so check that with anyone you're comparing. When you're ready, call (425) 285-8618 or send the form below with your room size.
Send us the room size and the flooring you plan to put on top, or call (425) 285-8618, and we'll reply within one business day to set a time. I come out myself for the estimate, which is free and done on site, and there's no obligation to go ahead.
Redmond requires a building permit for any project left off the no-permit list on the city's residential permits page, and that list names sidewalks and driveways, not concrete floors. So the list alone doesn't settle your floor. Before we set a date, we find out which city or county office covers your address and what your project calls for, then tell you plainly who'll handle the permit and the inspections. On permitted work the city wants inspections asked for as the job goes and before anything gets covered up, and on a floor the base is exactly what gets covered, so skipping one can hold the job up. The city's code also rates Redmond for moderate weathering and sets its own frost line and earthquake criteria, which is why local rules, not a general rule of thumb, decide the details on a permitted floor.
Around Redmond and over in Kirkland and Bellevue, a lot of our floor calls are garages, shops, basements and additions, and on older houses we often find the old slab went down on dirt that was raked level instead of dug out and packed. That's the part we fix first. Washington also lets eligible customers apply to L&I for recovery payments when a construction contractor's work leaves them out of money, and L&I's contractor rules page is where to read about it.
A concrete slab in the Seattle area usually costs about $7 to $14 per square foot, before any staining or stamping, and that's the area's going range, not our quote. Reinforcement moves it, since a slab with rebar, steel bars that hold the concrete together if it cracks, costs more per square foot than a plain pad. Staining or stamping gets budgeted on top, and the on-site estimate gives you the number for your room.
Start with what's going on top, because tile, wood or carpet changes what goes under the slab, and that part can't be added once the concrete is in. After that it's the room size, what has to come out, and the permit question we sort out before setting a date. Tell us those on a call or through the form, and I'll come out and look.
Most likely somewhere, because industry guidance is plain that even a well-designed, well-built floor can't realistically be crack-free. Good joints keep the cracking controlled and small, so the lines show up where you planned them instead of across the middle of the room. That's why we lay out the joints with you, and it's a fair question to ask any contractor.
Yes, industry guidance calls for protection from moisture coming up through a slab that will be covered with carpet, tile, wood, vinyl or a seamless coating, because water vapor can make the adhesive fail and leave the flooring lifted, warped or stained, sometimes with mold and odors. The same guidance finds a barrier laid right against the bottom of the slab protects the flooring best. The trade-off is extra water rising to the surface that slows finishing, so pour day runs longer, and for a covered floor I think that's worth it.
Around Seattle, a new slab should usually be walkable within 48 hours, and it's safer to give it about a week before heavier loads go on it. Concrete keeps curing for about a month, 28 to 30 days, before it's fully cured, so walkable and finished aren't the same thing.
