We're a Redmond concrete crew pouring driveways, patios, steps and retaining walls across Bothell. I come out to look at your ground and where the water runs before we talk about the finish.
(425) 285-8618
Bothell sits just down the Sammamish River from us in Redmond, next to Kirkland and Woodinville, and it's still growing. So we work on both kinds of house here, older homes with driveways that have been sinking for years and newer ones where the patio went in fast and is already chipping at the edges.
Most of what we're called out for is old concrete telling on itself. There's a crack running right where nobody cut a joint, a slab that dropped because its base was raked dirt, or a patio that tips water back toward the house. I like breaking those out, because the old slab usually shows you exactly what not to do again.
Tell us what's going on with your Bothell driveway, patio or wall, or call (425) 285-8618, and we'll reply within one business day. I'll come out myself for a free estimate on site, look at the old concrete and the ground under it, and walk you through what the job involves. There's no obligation to go ahead.
(425) 285-8618Most Bothell calls are for driveways that have cracked or sunk, patios and walks that hold water, and front steps that have pulled away from the house. On the hillside lots we also build retaining walls and footings, and in older garages we break out a tired slab and pour new garage floor concrete with a proper base under it. Pick a service below to see how we handle it.
Permits here come from the City of Bothell's Permit Center. The city says new construction and repairs to existing structures generally need a permit, and its list of exempt work doesn't name driveways or patios, so we find out what your project calls for before we set a date and tell you plainly who'll handle the permit and the inspections. That step, the weather the week we pour and whatever the old slab is hiding are what move the schedule. The price moves with the size of the slab, how much old concrete comes out, how deep we dig for the base, how easily a concrete truck can reach the spot and the finish you pick, from a plain broom finish, the light texture that keeps feet from slipping, up to stamped or colored work, and the estimate shows what each one adds before we start.
The ground changes a lot between the flatter neighborhoods near the river and the hillside lots up around Maywood Hill, so we check slope and runoff on every visit before we talk about thickness or finish. On a hill lot, water coming down the driveway wants to end up at your garage door, so we set the slab to carry it away, and a steep or tight lot sometimes needs a short retaining wall or a few steps to make it work. We do the same work next door in Woodinville and over in Cottage Lake, so Bothell is a regular drive for our crew.
When you call, I'm the one who walks your driveway or yard, asks how the old concrete has behaved and checks where the water goes. Then our own crew does the work, with me running the job, so the person who looked at your ground is there for the pour.
The base is the dug-out, packed gravel under the slab, and once the concrete's down nobody sees it, so it's the first thing people want to cut. I'd rather trim the finish, because a fancy surface on soft ground cracks just like a plain one.
We're licensed and insured, and we've been doing this since 2013, when side jobs for Redmond neighbors turned into a real business. Your satisfaction, guaranteed. If you're ready to talk about your project, call (425) 285-8618 or use the form above.
Your price comes from your driveway's size, how much old concrete we break out and haul away, how deep the base has to go and the finish you choose, so I give you a figure after I've seen the site. A plain broom finish costs less than stamped or colored work, and a hillside driveway that needs extra drainage or a short wall costs more than a flat one. The estimate lists what each part adds, so you know what you're paying for before we start.
A wall up to four feet tall, measured from the bottom of its footing to the top of the wall, is on the city's list of work exempt from permits, unless it holds up extra weight above it such as a driveway or a sloped yard. A taller wall, or one carrying that kind of load, isn't on that list, so plan on a permit. We measure the height and look at what sits above the wall at the estimate, then tell you which side of that line yours falls on.
You apply online, because the city takes all permit and land use applications through MyBuildingPermit.com. If you'd like to ask questions in person first, the Permit Center takes walk-ins Monday through Thursday from 8 a.m. to noon and 1 p.m. to 4 p.m., and Fridays from 8 a.m. to noon.
Start with CobMap, the city's online map, which shows approximate property lines and critical areas, the protected spots like wetlands and streams. An exact line takes a survey, and whether to get one is your call. If a new slab or wall is going near the edge of your lot, we'd rather you know before we dig than after.
You'll be walking on it well before you're driving on it, because curing, the slow hardening after the pour, keeps building strength for days after the surface looks dry. When we finish, we tell you when it's ready for feet and when it's ready for your car. Waiting the full time is a lot easier than fixing a tire rut.
Most cracking and sinking starts underneath, when the subgrade, the ground the slab sits on, was raked flat instead of dug out and packed, or when water runs under the slab and softens it. We dig out and pack the base, slope the slab away from the house, add rebar, the steel that holds the pieces together, where the job calls for it, skip pouring in the midday heat that leaves a weak, dusty top, and cut control joints, shallow grooves that give the concrete a straight place to crack, while it's still fresh. Concrete still cracks a little, but it cracks where we chose instead of across the middle of your driveway.
